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  • At Celine, the Designer Who Fell to Earth

    A cube drifts down the runway, all four sides clad in theatrical red curtains, and the curtains slowly begin to rise, revealing a contraption made of metal and lights that holds a single model sitting in stasis waiting for his cue to get ‘out of the box.’ In his glittering diamanté-encrusted suit, he is reminiscent of David Bowie’s character Thomas Jerome Newton in Nicolas Roeg’s 1976 film ‘The Man Who Fell to Earth,’ who sits watching multiple screens at once, absorbing American culture.

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    Jun 23, 2019 18:09:00

    Ode to Orlando at Comme des Gar?ons

    A runway show split over four acts, with four different lighting set-ups, four distinct soundtracks, and so much more. With Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Gar?ons, we’re often left with little more than guesswork as we extract meaning, if any, so skillfully concealed. Today, however, we had a clue: she's recently been tapped to design the costumes for a new production of Virginia Woolf's gender-fluid, time-traveling classic Orlando at the Vienna State Opera — clearly on her mind at today's outing.

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    Jun 22, 2019 15:05:00

    Farm to Runway: Junya Watanabe

    Opening to the farmyard sounds of a rooster crowing a wake-up call, Watanabe sent out his first look replete with an oversized tote bag stamped with the logo of the infamous London restaurant St John. The restaurant began life as the food side of Soho’s The French House, a bar frequented by the likes of Francis Bacon, Dylan Thomas and Lucian Freud, before moving into St John street in Clerkenwell near to Smithfield’s meat market. They specialize in ‘nose to tail’ cooking, using offal and parts of the animal that aren’t usually used.

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    Jun 21, 2019 21:40:00

    Giving Floral at Dries Van Noten

    Dries Van Noten took us to a venue we had never been to before today, something very rare on the fashion week treadmill, and then turned our expectations upside down. It was composed of a series of vast white ‘perfect’ spaces for a gallery show. Or indeed, a runway show, that ended in a long intimate corridor bathed in hot pink light. And this was the master touch: taking us out of our comfort zone and dragging us into the unique world of his collection.

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    Jun 21, 2019 18:55:00

    Printer Friendly at Yohji Yamamoto

    A Yohji Yamamoto show comes with certain expectations and, in the same breath, certain unknowns. We know that he is the undisputed king of all things black, and that his garments are poetry in motion, but something he doesn’t usually get credit for is his astute eye, and hand, for print.

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    Jun 21, 2019 12:15:00

    Slim and Sculpted at Rick Owens

    The invitation was a layered sculptural object signed Thomas Houseago, a Los Angeles-based artist who has his first retrospective in France at the moment in the Musée d’Art Moderne. The museum shares a common courtyard with the Palais de Tokyo, Owens’ venue of choice where we found ourselves today, face-to-face with a huge Houseago sculpture that occupied the space between the two museums, dominating the runway scenography. When life gives you lemons, make lemonade, right?

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    Jun 20, 2019 19:27:00

    Dark Forces at Comme des Gar?ons

    Last season was brutal, referencing war and pain, so we were ready for an uncomfortable ride from the outset at Comme des Gar?ons. This season we were treated to a ritual, though I’m unsure as to what kind of spell Rei cast on us.

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    Mar 03, 2019 17:41:00

    New Harajuku at Junya Watanabe

    Junya Watanabe opened with the raucous proto-propaganda of Grimes’ last single, ‘We Appreciate Power’, which she claimed was based on North Korean prop-pop group Moranbong, but in reality sounded like a teen-angst J-Pop song. It was perfect for the girl that was conjured up on the runway today. She was a love letter to old-school Harajuku, East-meets-West, doll-eyed, big-haired, and stomping in silver cowboy boots — truly eclectic style.

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    Mar 02, 2019 14:01:00

    Different Strokes at Yohji Yamamoto

    Was it a coincidence that the inventor of silver gaffer tape, Ross Lowell, passed away seven days ago and Yamamoto had three strips of silver gaffer on his invitation, though none at all in the show? Probably. But then, we are always left trying to decode the workings of Yamamoto, who, in all fairness, simply makes some of the most painfully beautiful clothes on the market.

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    Mar 01, 2019 19:04:00

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  • 庆祝人民日报创刊70周年系列访谈之徐丹 2019-07-15
  • 武警部队“长城-2018”反恐国际论坛在京开幕 2019-07-03
  • 大众集团有望发力电动汽车 2019-06-19
  • 税延养老保险管理办法出台 2019-06-17
  • 营销误导难绝? 保险销售实行可回溯管理 2019-06-16
  • 700亿美元大生意 美媒称西方拟建新舰队反制中国 2019-06-16
  • 开创国有企业全面从严治党新局面 2019-06-12
  • 世相【镜头中的陕西人】 2019-06-12
  • 对市人民政府推进民生基础设施项目、解决历史遗留问题情况开展专题询问 2019-05-31
  • 国丰新能源有限公司获第十二届人民企业社会责任奖年度环保奖 2019-05-31
  • 3.4米剧毒眼镜王蛇闯入农户家中赖着不走 2019-05-26
  • 【用事实说话】从农村40年巨变看改革开放 2019-05-19
  • 消除“不对位”“零差别”br创新机关党员日常管理量化考评工作 2019-05-15
  • “东方夜莺”杨学进悉尼举办上海老歌独唱音乐会 2019-05-15
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